Discover Provence: Between river moments & castle feelings

Bathing in the warm light & air of Provence: On a river cruise from Lyon to Avignon, watching the summer promenades along the banks, falling in love with the sound of your own slippers through the narrow streets of medieval towns, a sip of the finest chocolate on your palate and orange blossom in your nose. Breathe in and breathe out! And then into a real castle from the century before last, 30 kilometres from Avignon. Under the shade of exotic giants in the fairytale park in the morning sun, listening to Rolf Bertschi’s stories about the castle and a little bit about his illustrious guests who have already stayed at this family boutique hotel over a second cappuccino. Oh la la, moments in life that you want to preserve and save so that not a single one is lost … Come with us on a feel-good journey of the senses through the most beautiful part of France – Provence.

With the ‘Ravel’ on the Rhone through Provence

As I stand on deck on the second evening, the starry night above me, a small island on the Rhone in front of me, with birds twittering in my ears (at 10 o’clock in the evening!) and the scent of lavender, rosemary and citrus around me, I smile to myself, so happy for this moment.

June is the perfect time for a river cruise on the Rhone, the summer heat is still weeks away and the lavender is in deep purple bloom. Oh what am I saying, not just any river cruise, but with the ‘Ravel’, a luxury liner in a class of its own from Riverside Cruises (click here for more information) on a discovery tour through Provence. We have a 4-day ‘I-can’t-believe-it-how-beautiful!’ tour from Lyon to Avignon. We start in the mega gourmet city in the Auvergne, at the confluence of the Rhone and Saône rivers, where the fine aroma of master chef Paul Bocuse wafts around practically every bouchon corner. We are picked up by a limousine that drives us to the jetty of the Ravel. No suitcases to lug around, they are already on board when we test the king-size bed in our suite with a glass of champagne in hand. Breathe in and breathe out!

Do you want to waste the trip’s attractions on the sun deck? Not on the Ravel, there are 3-5 excursions per day to choose from and at least one is a MUST. For example, an e-bike tour through the vineyards of the Rhone Valley, including wine tasting at the ‘Domaine Barge’ in Ampuis. By the way! It wasn’t the French who invented and cultivated wine here, but the Romans. Or my absolute favourite tour: off to the ‘Domaine de Cordis’, a truffle farm in Grignan, where truffles are sought – and found – by ‘Romy’, a 5-year-old springer spaniel and truffle dog. Carole and Didier Chabert enthusiastically explain how they have only found their passion in their second career: they have now been breeding black truffles extremely successfully for 20 years on a purely organic basis and they also breed the right dogs – springer spaniels like Romy. At the moment I’m thinking about where my strengths and passions lie. Madame & Monsieur inspire – and yes, life is colourful & diverse. So be courageous in your thinking & feeling, it’s worth it – at any age.

Provence whispers: encounters, flavours, moments

Our fellow travellers are Americans, Germans and Asians, all of whom are experienced travellers and are often in their prime. We usually tour at night, so that in the morning the beauty along the Rhône leaves you speechless when you wake up and see it through the floor-to-ceiling suite windows. However, our Ravel tour from Lyon to Avignon is composed in such a way that we are served around 15 locks for aperitif and dinner – the largest with a lifting height of an impressive 23 metres. A pleasure especially for the gentlemen travelling with us, who regularly gather on the foredeck with a drink and are happy to share imaginative navigation tips. For example, my husband met Ryan, a businessman from Los Angeles. Meanwhile, I talked about life with his wife Julie over an espresso martini in the Palm Court. Just this much: Americans are open & warm, we have zero control over how we come across to others. But compliments and friendliness also open hearts across the Atlantic and lead to deeper understanding and savoir vivre for everyone involved! Breathe in and breathe out!

And what’s for dinner? How about risotto from the Camargue, Black Angus with green pepper, scallop tartare with green apples and ginger, to name just a few star-studded delicacies. I paired it with a 2023 Petit Chablis from the La Chablisienne cooperative, which is already a brilliant golden yellow in colour and light and airy on the palate – ideal with light fish and Mediterranean cuisine. No, not my wine knowledge, but the palatable, fresh recommendation from sommelier Rafael from Portugal – but I couldn’t have said it better myself.

Merci Ravel for the wonderfully plumping beauty treatment under the expert hands of beauty therapist Aleksandra.

The good wine from Grenache, Cinsault, Rolle and Syrah grapes in white, rosé and red, specially selected for me by Rafael. The really interesting conversations with Ryan, Julie or Arun and Lian from Singapore – thank you, I would never have got to know you otherwise. Breathe in and breathe out. And the realisation: there is nothing better in life than NOW! Make something of it.

Château de Montcaud for senses & sensuality

If you can’t imagine that something can be more beautiful, better, more soulful & more sensual. And have forgotten that no feeling is final: once through the castle gate through the fairytale park, up the steps and see maximum beauty … The Château de Montcaud (click here for more information) shines from the outside, as a classicist stone cube. Beauty for the eye and the soul that hits you right in the stomach and heart. The château was built by a French silk manufacturer between 1848 and 1875. It then changed hands several times until the Swiss Bertschi family finally turned it into a jewel in Provence in 2016 with its understated elegance.

 

 

Through the oak door, you walk past the reception on the left and the lounge on the right, with modern armchairs and sofas in southern French style, and up the stairs or in the lift to 29 rooms and suites. Breathe in and breathe out. Interior designer Sophie Petit was inspired by the so-called ‘Indiennes de Nîmes’ for the exquisitely beautiful fabrics throughout the château. Tip: If you want to find out more about the beautiful Provençal fabrics, visit the nearby ‘Musée d’Art et d’Histoire’ in Orange.

You can’t have too much beauty here! But in slow mode with a refreshing minty welcome in your hand. Come with me! Even in the stairwell, I almost strain my neck for the smoked glass lamp symphony – made according to an idea by Rolf Bertschi. Or the silk tableau above our sprawling 2.10 metre long bed: an elegant cream shade, set in a simple oak frame.

What a marvellous idea! Now I finally know what I want above my bed at home – exactly that! French oak furniture, marble and silk bedside table tops as artistic lamps and objects scattered around the house – a reminiscence of the castle’s history. Just so much! The breathtakingly beautiful silk designs are by designer Clara Hardy, with whom the Château de Montcaud maintains a close partnership. Just imagine: She has managed to get the caterpillars to work for her on the plain – they spin the silk directly on a tableau instead of into a cocoon. I mean … !!! Clara Hardy’s work can be admired in the ‘Musée de la Soie’, not far from the castle.  Incidentally, we ‘reside’ in the Bishop’s Room on the first floor with sweeping views over the park from all three castle windows: Views of the pool, Chill & Meet under the plane trees and the neighbouring bistro & restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Matthieu Hervé. Breathe in and breathe out.

Arrive. Take a deep breath. Completely with yourself

‘Wow, this is beautiful’ is something you feel with your whole body here. And something happens to you on your first walk under the huge trees in the castle park: your holiday takes you by the hand and you arrive – very close to yourself.

Trusting your own feelings and desires, feeling and seeing what is important to you – in this soulful environment, this comes naturally. In the extensive 5-hectare fairytale park with historic grotto, by the castle pond, lined with rose beds in which over 40 different types of roses bloom, or simply while applying make-up in our ballroom-sized bathroom. Tip: Walk through the park at dusk with a glass of rosé in your hand. Nice to pinch yourself! You can also do this with your dog, they are welcome here at Château de Montcaud!

If you don’t lose track of time in some corner of the château or in our wow-worthy junior suite, you can then settle down for fine dining on the terrace in the addictive summer twilight. The Michelin-starred restaurant is open from Wednesday to Saturday. We arrive on Sunday and leave on Wednesday. But that doesn’t matter, because the bistro with its terrace under the plane trees serves breakfast, launch and dinner. It’s clear from the first amuse-guele that we won’t move an inch from the plaice when it comes to food: a delicious cucumber, langoustine and dill bite. Oh mon Dieu … délicieuse.

 

The small, fine menu in the bistro is based on seasonal market offerings. How about a succulent, tender côte de boeuf or a hearty bouillabaisse? My tip: monkfish on ratatouille vegetables – so good that I eat it on two evenings. Incidentally, both restaurants are also open to guests from out of town. And at Monsieur Hervé you can book fine cookery courses with flavour experiences of truffle, foie gras or Mediterranean bouillabaisse. Breathe in and breathe out.

I’m still trying to decide what I find more exciting here in the southern light and shade of myself – celebrating a cookery course or creating my own perfume. Yes, both are possible! There is already a fragrance garden at Château de Montcaud and exclusive perfume seminars starting in autumn. What do I take with me here in early summer, apart from the homemade honey, the scent of olives, lavender, rosemary, thyme and pistachio in my nose and, OF COURSE! one of the three perfumes that guests can buy here? The realisation that you can be happy for three days straight. And for all those who are being called here now: My love greetings from Provence are an absolute recommendation for those who want to celebrate life with all their senses. And for those who don’t have Provence to hand: Buy some lavender and rosemary, pot it up, bury your face in it and take three deep breaths. Helps against longing. 🙂

 

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